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Saturday, 12 July 2014 17:05 | Published in Quick Bytes | More in this category: « Epicure Café: Prime In the Daytime The Queen Vic - Pub & Kitchen »
Siphon Coffee: Sip and Savor By Michael Cook Photography by Daniel Ortiz

Siphon Coffee: Sip and Savor

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First, a disclaimer. I am not a seasoned coffee drinker nor am I certainly any type of java expert. Hence why I was initially a bit hesitant to offer extended commentary on an establishment whose ostensible claim to fame is its commitment to offering patrons coffee painstakingly concocted using halogen siphons as well as unique local and artisanal roasts.

But I got over it. Because Siphon Coffee is, as they purport, also “pay[s] attention to what’s on the plates, as well as in the cups.” So, espresso aficionados, don’t be too distracted by the coffee, and newbies, don’t be too intimidated. There’s lots more to sip and savor. Like breakfast, which is served up until 11 a.m., a godsend for those of us for whom “an early start” is an elusive fantasy. Incongruous with the spare décor and clean simple space but nevertheless delicious, is the Eggs Benedict a la Cowboy, a delightfully messy pair of biscuits layered with pan sausage, poached eggs, and “secret” jalapeno cream gravy. More artfully presented is the Croque Madame-In-A-Hole, a lovely amalgam of American “Toad-in-A-Hole” and the classic French sandwich that’s made with madrange ham, gruyere cheese, and a poached egg. Smaller but still satisfying bites include the already highly popular, amazing flaky empanadas, stuffed with chicken, beef, or potato and served with fragrant chimichurri.

The “Noon & Night” section of the menu is less amusing but substantial with a selection of panini as well as nibbling plates. I particularly like the ham and brie adorned with a thick schmear of Dijon mustard, though the portion size is a bit piddling for an $11 price tag. The mezze board of hummus, tapenade, marinated olives, mixed nuts, crudités, and bread is great assemblage of textured proteins and vegetables and pairs nicely with a glass of craft beer or wine.

Sweet selection at this point is confined to the muffin of the day and very good seal salt chocolate chip cookies. Less impressive (though unfortunately heartily recommended by my server) was the blondie, a bland overly dense square lacking in that essential brown sugar sweetness.

As a young’un in the world of Houston establishments, Siphon Coffee is still working out the kinks, so try not to pout too much if they run out of muffins and sea salt chocolate chip cookies by the time you arrive in late afternoon. If its determination to offer Houstonians fastidiously made food and drink persists, Siphon Coffee will undoubtedly be here to stay.

 

Siphon Coffee
701 W Alabama St Houston, TX 77006

Siphon Coffee on Urbanspoon

Written by Joanna O'Leary
Joanna O'Leary

Joanna O'Leary

With a bachelor's degree in English from Harvard University and a PhD in Victorian literature from Rice University, Joanna O'Leary enjoys reading and writing almost as much as she likes to eat. She has worked as a food and travel writer for a number of publications including Let's Go, Wine Enthusiast, Black Book, the Onion, and the Houston Press, and is currently writing a book on amateur turn-of-the-century cookbooks and material culture.


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